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Project 93 GS300 5 speed

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  • #61
    Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

    Updates of whats been going on! Just finished school for the summer. I trimmed my front bumper a little bit that was interfering with boost couplers. I removed the rear seat and installed a Walbro 416 (@ 12v) lph fuel pump. I figured for the OEM TT levels I am at now, without an upgraded fuel system I would use stock wiring. I jumped the incoming battery wiring into the FP ECU and used an inline fuse to connect to the fuel pump, bypassing the fuel pump ecu but leaving the other connectors in tack. In the future I will run a separate line from the battery when I upgrade to a fuel pressure regulator and single turbo.

    Ended up winning a new HKS FCD on ebay for $50, also I picked up some used parts for my maintenance that includes vvti coil packs and a 6 speed serpentine tensioner setup. Going to replace the plastic pulley with my metal one that has a new bearing in it.

    Picking up these parts new from Toyota:

    16100-49847* Water Pump assembly $120.58
    90311-46001 Front Main Seal $10.68
    90311-40020 (x2) Camshaft Oil Seals $5.51 ea
    Gates serpentine belt # K060763
    90916-03093 Thermostat $15.48
    16325-62010 Thermostat O-ring $4.24
    13505-46041 Timing Belt Idler $66.68
    13568-49036 Timing Belt $26.64
    13540-46030 Timing Tensioner $57.70
    11213-46030 Valve Cover Gasket INTAKE VVTI SIDE $10.47
    11214-46011 Valve Cover Gasket EXHAUST SIDE $11.91
    90210-26002 VVTi Pulley Front Seal $.72
    15678-32010 VVTi Actuator Filter Screen $3.40

    On the way to school I had a nice WOT pull which felt great, and going up my campus hill my car started sputtering and losing fuel which left me dead. Was able to restart and limp it to the parking lot and got it towed home.

    Replaced my fuel line, it had a hole in it. Thankful that it was a five dollar fix that only required me to remove the back seat.

    Won an JZS147 OEM strut bar on ebay and also purchased a HKS turbo timer, an autometer boost gauge with mount, new tan shift boot and exhaust gasket to fix my leak.

    Still waiting on my OEM toyota parts which will come in Monday, and since the following weekend is superbowl Sunday.. that wont work for me. So I am planning on doing some repairs a few weekends from now.

    So I ended up getting that cheap HKS FCD standard today, pretty sweet cause it was unused and came with the original box and packaging manual and connectors. Set to setting 9, warmed up my car and took it for a test drive. Success! No more fuel cut and I am able to do full throttle pulls. Pretty happy with that purchase!

    Got my leather shift boot on and fit it. No more cabin fumes! yay!

    Installed my OEM JZS147 strut bar that came:

    Need to re-do the lines for my power steering reservoir and mount it securely, but back to studying for me!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Small update

    Gauge pod had to be cut out in the back a little to allow the vacuum hard line to protrude. Wired the 12v from the accessory cig lighter power and grounded it to a stud on the transmission tunnel. Going to change my vacuum source as I tapped into the fuel pressure regulator VSV and i ended up hitting fuel cut oddly.

    Currently have it T'd into 25860D, when it should be on 25860A on the map sensor.

    Some maintenance is done :P

    Me and my bro would've finished in one day if I was supplied the right gaskets, but nonetheless **** came up wrong. I ended up not getting a second cam seal in my order, and no upper water neck gasket in my water pump kit. Came with two thermostat gaskets though! SCORE!... lol

    tomāto, tomăto? Found this funny on the water pump of my car. Matches my P/S reservoir!

    So, disassembly went pretty smoothly. I didn't take pictures of much because I had my gloves on and dirty. I followed the IS300 2jzge service manual as far as the VVT-I cam settings go. I picked up the o-ring from power dynamix and our install went easier and faster than his instructions. He unnecessarily disassembles the internal gears and tells you how to line them back up. But we avoided messing that up. After the cam seals (using a puller instead of removing the caps); and installing the full water pump (front and back half assembled from toyota) along with the connecting pipe and new o-rings everywhere. New idler pulley and tensioner installed along with front main seal.

    At that point the vvt-i filter was cleaned after only 5000 miles was quite a bit gunked up. New one from toyota ended up being the wrong part, some how. Cam gears went back on and lined up with the dots. Old belt on top of motor still in great condition.

    Next up is the new belt installed and nicely lined up!

    One thing I failed to take a picture of, but will describe is the 6-speed supra or is300 5 speed serpentine belt tensioner w/ shock absorber shown above. Installed my metal pulley on it with a new bearing and its very nice. Quite happy with how it works! The amount of engine torque now needled to flip a belt is high!! :P Hard shifts wont be a concern. For those of you with an Auto this isn't necessary.

    The only thing I didn't replace was my serpentine belt but that was done recently. Got under the car and tightened up the rear water pipe, threw the radiator in and got fluids in it. Started up in the first crank, like 1/2 second after having the battery off for 3 days. Happy about that! Idles perfect and no more oil leaks.

    So school has been hectic and busy as heck trying to bring my GPA up! But spring break is next week and I will be working on my car, and updating with picturessss! I picked up some 285/45ZR-18 Pirelli P Zero System Asimmetri's for $98 each from tirerack on discount! 2011 production... yeee. Definitely need to roll my fenders to get these to fit so that will also be in order.

    Picked up an 9006 / HB4 Xtreme Digital HID Conversion Kit with 4300k Philips Bulb Upgrade from KBcarstuff and got a clublexus 25 dollar off coupon. Also going to be throwing my car on the alignment rack to adjust the rear end, and when that happens I will do an oil change and install the new speedometer sensor.


    • #62
      Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

      Going to be doing some work on the car this summer so should have more updates.

      Today I went and had my new tires put on along with an alignment. Few weeks ago I used a baseball bat and rolled up the rear lips on the fenders to stuff the 285 Pirelli p-zeros underneath. I ended up stiffening my rear coil overs just in case they were going to rub on bumps because we ran out of time and couldn't adjust the shocks higher if need be. But onto pictures!

      In the bay getting the new tires mounted, also found out I need new radiator clamps on the underside. Both the lower radiator and thermostat outlet hose is slightly leaking from stock clamps.

      Old tires were like slicks =X whoops.

      Previous tires were 275's and a little less sidewall. But I knew I could stuff a little more. Here's popping the old tires off and balancing the new.

      Here's the old tire vs the new. The right is mounted and the left is not, but still... over an inch taller with the new 285/45ZR-18 Pirelli P Zero's.

      Next up was the alignment. Front upper ball joints need to be replaced so camber wasn't done on the front.

      I felt like the fit was pretty good on the rack.

      After all, it rode pretty great on the way home, no rubs. Excited to see how they handle in the dry!

      - - - Updated - - -

      So I ordered some front and rear brake pads from Concord Lexus, going to have my brother who works at Toyota turn the rotors. I also called up Toyota and ordered the front shim kit and disc brake grease.

      Rear pads - #04466-30030
      Front pads - #04465-50040

      I have some new lower front ball joints, and since my uppers are shot... I decided to do the upgrade to some SPC #72270 arms.

      These arms seem pretty high quality. A re-design by FIGS engineering which SPC is producing, with their in house patented ball joints. The OEM upper arms have a one piece pressed in ball joint that forces you to replace the entire UCA. Stockers run about $700+! Jeesh... These are about half the price with replaceable ball joints and adjustable camber.

      I picked up a wix filter and some german castrol 0w-40, also planning on doing a transmission flush and getting my new speed sensor installed.

      I went with some KBcarstuff extreme HID w/ phillips bulbs. They forgot my relay harnesses' twice.. But hopefully I can get these installed soon with no issues.

      Lastly, I discovered the oem radiator clamps on the lower hose (both sides) are a bit old and losing tension, need to replace with new worm clamps. Trying to get maintenance things done so I can take some road trips in the car and feel safe. Definitely going to flush the brake system with new fluid and get a new alignment on the front end with the upgrades.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Installed the HID headlights today, everything went real smoothly using the kbcarstuff extreme HID kit. I used the phillips bulbs, which would've been better had they used a 90 degree connect and not one that comes straight out of the housing. This made me have to relocate my overflow tank. Also discovered that my passenger side 9006 connector is fried, so I ordered two high temperature dorman replacements.

      Slim extreme HID ballasts:

      Wires need to be zip tied together, but this shows the bulb coming out of the projector housing and a relay

      Routed the positive fused line under the radiator clamps to the positive terminal on the battery

      The driver side has the two 30A fused connections on the positive side, a ground from the relay on the negative terminal and the ballast mounted to the drives side fender.

      Went to Toyota today and picked up the shim kit for the front end along with pcv valve & grommet, disc brake grease and 16x valve cover washer seals. Parts manager had to rag on my Toyota muscle. Eff his Prius selling ass!

      Ordered a gates K060763 accesory belt, NGK TE79 wire set, vvti valve cover gasket set, and found a super rare discontinued HKS Turbo Timer Harness TT-5 from France!


      • #63
        Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

        Fantastic update dude, thanks Haven't you got any Club Aristo stickers??
        JZS147- Do Luck edition
        Ive got one speed, one gear, go!


        • #64
          Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

          Not yet Swampy! Just found some from DeNick! Going to put it on soon. More updates to come this summer. I have a full clubaristo LED interior kit, the ball joints and brakes, and some trailer wiring :P. Maybe some other stuff!
          Last edited by joewitafro; 17-05-15, 12:25 AM.


          • #65
            Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

            Went out and started, and it just started to sprinkle which caused me to misplace it! Argghh! Still looks pretty good!


            • #66
              Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

              Some photos of my coolant overflow relocation

              Showing my igniter mounted and clutch master, along with an overview of my motor right now. Needs cleaning!

              - - - Updated - - -

              Just ordered a fuel filter #23300-50050. Figured its probably never been replaced!

              I'm having an issue where when i go WOT.. I am only making 10 psi of boost, yet hitting fuel cut and having the throttle body go into limp mode. Any clues?

              Also, the 10 psi issue.. Could this be because of a blown out down pipe gasket?.. Not sure how much effect back pressure has on the stock twin system.

              Another upgrade I would like to do is a HKS SLD type 2. So in those efforts I've cleaned up the diagram I will need to do it.

              - - - Updated - - -

              Decided to take some pictures of the setup, and install some NGK TE79 wires and some zip ties on vacuum hose.

              Here's a picture of the new 2jz-gte accessory belt dampener from a manual supra TT / IS300

              No leaks on the vvt-i cam gear!

              The old stock wires pretty much broke taking them off. :thumbdn:

              And the new NGK-TE79 wires installed!

              Going to be doing brakes and ball joints soon!

              - - - Updated - - -

              So after installing the HID's, one of my low beam connectors was fried so I picked up some dorman hi temp connectors to replace.

              I also used baking soda and water with a sponge to scrub my headlights and clean them up a bit.




              • #67
                Re: Project 93 GS300 2JZGTE VVTI + SOARER R154

                Car went into the shop today! Thanks to my brother while he is out of town for allowing me to use it.

                Rotors off all four corners. Dropping these off in the AM at Toyota to be surfaced.

                I ended up removing the front fender liner, did an oil change and replaced the hose clamps on the lower section of the radiator. Tomorrow I am going to drop the rotors off first, then harbor freight for a ball joint separator, and proceeding to do the upper and lower front ball joints. I also plan to do valve cover gaskets, PCV valve and work on my exhaust down pipe flange/gasket. More pictures tomorrow.


                • #68
                  Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                  Started off this morning dropping the rotors off at toyota and picking up this harbor freight ball joint separator. Got it for 10 dollars off for 15.99, not bad if it can do the job!

                  Picked up the rotors, they look pretty good for OEM and have life left in them.

                  Using a 17mm impact socket, I removed the two bolts holding the caliper on, and set the calipers aside using something to prop them up to prevent the lines from being damaged.

                  Checkin out my new upper control arms with camber adjustment from SPC. These are version 2.

                  Time to get to work on the ball joints!

                  Remove the upper break line attached to the control arm with a 10mm.

                  Remove the cotter pin and castle nut, and then use the separator to pop the ball joint apart.

                  Next use a 14mm to remove the two bolts on either side of the coil over.

                  With these out the arm can easily be pulled out.

                  New arm on

                  Now to remove the lower ball joints you need to use the separator on the tie rod ends, then zip off the two 17mm bolts underneath either side of the lower ball joint. After this you can lift the upper ball joint and connecting arm to the side to have some room to work with. This lower ball joint can come out rather explosively!

                  New lower ball joints on. On the passenger side I had no problem getting the tie rod in, but the drivers side is another story for tomorrow.

                  Drivers side control arm and ball joint in:

                  Front caliper with the brakes pulled out. Its a pain to get these retainer clips in. I still need to open up the pads more to fit over the rotor.

                  More tomorrow!


                  • #69
                    Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                    That's my next install, suspension/steering component's.

                    Nice car man.


                    • #70
                      Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                      Thank you Dave!

                      So today I realized my driver side outer tie rod end is shot, and the threads not so pretty either. I tried getting a moog today, but they ended up delivering an inner tie rod *DOH* so I ordered the correct part and it should be here Tuesday or Wednesday.

                      In the mean time I went back to the shop to work on the brakes. I've never done this before, and couldn't find a write up nor' any useful information in the gs300 manual.

                      Pretty much to do this job, its best to set the rotors on the studs after tightening the lower ball joint to the hub well with loctite. Then use a 14mm to separate the caliper apart.

                      Make sure to use the toyota disc brake grease for the anti-squeel pads on both sides.

                      Install the new brake pads into the caliper slider like so. You will have to press little retaining clips back to get the pads in, but its easy.

                      Next is to set that section with the brake pads onto the rotor, and bolt it to the hub. At this stage you can push your rotor fully into place, and use loctite on these bolts with your pads attached. Also, the anti-rattle springs can be easily installed at this stage.

                      Next is to compress the caliper pistons. First remove the brake master fluid cover, and find a caliper compressor. This specific one is a mac tools, and it worked but there may be better. Your going to want to compress them evenly, and often go and check to make sure your fluid level is not above the high line. When you compress the piston enough that the fluid does, just suck some out with a dedicated turkey baster or syringe.

                      Last of all was putting the compressed piston caliper back on the brake pad section and bolting it on with loctite. I repeated this process for all four corners without breaking the lines open. Afterwards i re-added some fluid.

                      I put on my gates accessory belt, and then raised my rear coils 1" to help with tire clearance and allowing me to tow my quad. Tomorrow I plan on working on fixing my down-pipe and replace the exhaust gasket there, and then work on the transmission speed sensor conversion from electronic to a supra mk3 R154 wire version with a marlin crawler speed sensor adapter. And I have valve cover gaskets and pcv valve to do as well.


                      • #71
                        Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                        Few pictures from the local car meet yesterday. My steering feels terribly sloppy from my blown out tie rod end, so it cut my day short but that's okay. My MOOG tie rod end came in the mail when I arrived home!

                        Still cant go WOT without hitting fuel cut and going into limp mode, and only making 8-10 psi..


                        • #72
                          Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                          Some small but good progress!

                          Today my wiring harness guy Mark @ Panic Wire hit me up on email thinking he had a fix for my cut out issue and wanted me to stop by his house. Went over to have him check it out, and he created an obd2 harness and installed it for me.

                          Another customer of his with a vvt-i swap was having some back feeding voltage from the starter relay, and Mark thought this could be my issue if it was happening but no luck there, mine isn't causing the issue. So after installing the obd2 connector we took it for a test drive, hit limp mode and headed back. To my surprise he asked if I had diagnosed my TPS yet, and using and properly operating a volt meter has been something I have yet to learn so it was a great lesson learning about readjusting the TPS to be within spec! We discovered with the ohm meter that I was hitting over 5V @ 80% throttle, which was causing a conflict between the accelerator position sensor and the TPS, and creating a limp mode condition.

                          Once we adjusted the TPS and reset the ECU the car is now able to do full throttle pulls @ 8-10 psi without any fuel cut. FINALLY!!! Super happy about this and the time and effort Mark took out of his day to work on my car at his house, way above any expectations to have him offer some at home diagnostics to figure out my issue. Really can't say enough good about Panic Wire. Most people would've told me to find a shop or a mechanic, feels like Mark is a homie!

                          After relaxing a bit from the scorching heat, I ordered a OBDLink LX with bluetooth so I can connect it to my new port, run the Torque APP that is JOBD/ISO 14230 protocol compliant. This should give me the ability to view and clear codes, as well as have some real time information stream that I can broadcast with my android device. Would love to get a boost controller in the future, been looking at both the Hallman pro MBC or the HDI EBC.

                          Last of all my new front tires showed up. My old ball joints pretty much wrecked the insides of my old tires. I decided to go for a slightly smaller sidewall because I am rubbing on the firewall.

                          Last edited by joewitafro; 07-06-15, 11:20 PM.


                          • #73
                            Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                            Had a family get together today, hot sun in the 90s and BBQ! But when it cooled down I put my interior back together and mounted the OBD2 port. Looks great to me.


                            • #74
                              Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                              So starting off on my car.. I used the information from that described I needed to purchase Torque Pro app for android to get this to work and enter in some information.

                              Buy a ELM327 scanner tool – ELM327 Interface Bluetooth OBD2 Auto Scanner V1.4 OBDII
                              Purchase and install Torque Pro Android software – Torque Pro Google Play
                              In the vehicle profile of the Torque Pro application add the following line in the VERY ADVANCED ELM327 section: ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100

                              Now from some reading those settings mean;

                              ATIB96 = Set the ISO baud rate to 9600bps
                              ATIIA 13 = Set ISO (slow) Init Address to 13
                              ATSH8213F0 = Set Header to 8213F0
                              ATSP4 = Set protocol to 4 (ISO 14230-4 KWP (5 baud init, 10.4Kbaud))
                              0100 = Start Sending Data

                              Now, with the car started I can get it to connect. But after doing some pulls and logging, I question some of the results and ask for anyone's input.

                              For the Vacuum reading, It seems to accurately read my vacuum gauge until -5.. at that point it doesn't go further while my boost gauge is reading 8-10 psi. The Tachometer seems to be accurate but shows a max achieved limit of 5500-5700 or so with the OBD2 port readout from the ECU, while the dash shows me reaching the rev limiter at 6500. Also, the throttle only shows to be reaching 76-78% when i go WOT.

                              These few things lead me to believe that either my ECU is bad, or.. my MAP sensor and TPS may be out of calibration even more. And maybe even my igniter?

                              last of all, I took a picture of how my rear end has settled with the new raised height and rear tires. I think it looks real good. Hope to tow my quad this summer!


                              • #75
                                Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                                Or maybe all the stuff you bought doesnt work properly with the car/isnt set up properly?
                                JZS147- Do Luck edition
                                Ive got one speed, one gear, go!