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Project 93 GS300 5 speed

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  • #46
    Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed


    • #47
      Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

      ordered some PBM max VIP jzs 147 coilovers. can't wait to install them
      I'm still looking for a fender but I imagine once it has coilovers and a roll the fitment will be just perfect


      • #48
        Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

        Just get 'er lower when you get those coilovers and it'll look awesome

        The Pretty One -!!!


        • #49
          Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

          You know it !!! I got this all figured out in my head


          • #50
            Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

            Got the coil overs installed! Had to raise it up a bunch cause it was slammed as heck! Also got it aligned today and thankfully there isn't any more rubbing but its pretty stiff, and I am fully turned to "hard" and one click soft in the fronts. Need to borrow or buy a fender roller and replace the driverside front fender before it goes any lower. Also, do you guys think its fine to pull out the fender liner? Its rubbing in the back/front of the front fender.


            • #51
              Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

              I think it's been discussed before. You can pull it, but then your door jam will get full of sand and any other crap that gets picked up off the road. The exposed body surface will also be subject to whatever comes flying off the tires.

              The Pretty One -!!!


              • #52
                Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                Originally posted by joewitafro View Post
                Upon deceleration the drifeshaft clunks, not sure if my stock motor mounts are completely shot or what. Also occasionally at a higher speed I am getting something ticking, perhaps a plug hanging down...
                Maybe check your old diff bushings & subframe bushings for the clunking. Might take a look and see if your parking brake cable is hitting the driveshaft?


                • #53
                  Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                  Sigh, I don't know why I haven't updated this.. Life's been hectic, and things are crazy... A LOT has been done! I have been updating another blog but frankly, the community here is so awesome and in the US things are dwindling with these cars. But I am going to start updating this thread fully to be concurrent of where my build is, and if others have seen already, shhhh!!!

                  Back in May ... My motor started rod knocking. I have been researching my options and finding quotes to see if its cheap enough, or worth rebuilding my 2jzge. I wanted to do a full rebuild and have it done correctly so I could turbo the car in the future and be able to have something that's reliable for the next ten years. Quotes ranged from 3000-4500+ just for an oem rebuild on the head and bottom end with me doing all the labor for dis-assembly and reassembly.

                  After considering my options for quite some time I decided I was going to do an aristo motor swap and keep it with the stock twin turbo's. I wasn't able to get my car into our shop right away so it has been sitting in my driveway not taken apart. This has allowed me to think a lot more, and after searching daily for motors that come up on ebay and the internet I decided to look into a VVTI swap. Previous misconceptions have always led me to believe that the twin turbo vvti motors had thinner smaller rods than their non-vvti counterparts but after more research it seems I was wrong. Seems the rods, crank and pistons are identical for all 2jzgte motors 1993-2004 and the smaller rods are only on 2jzge vvti motors.

                  So I ordered a 1998-2000 toyota aristo JZS161 2jzgte VVTI motor set from (Shoaib). The price was good and I have heard good reviews, the photos looked good and I am hoping to receive a good motor. I have also been looking about where to have my harness done, after initially (and my only previous knowledge led me to believe) that dr tweak/phoenix tuning would be my best bet for a harness made, but the prolonged wait on my car going into the shop has had me researching a lot of little details and I came across a post on here mentioning panicwire, so I investigated further and found out about Mike Panic @ His website seems very plain but further googling found he's a sponsor at jzxproject and lists his services there. Mike used to work for Portland Speed Industries in portland, OR across the river from me, and touts Ryan tuerck's drift 2jz car as having his full harness and wiring services, along with a variety of drift cars specializing in toyota motors. Perfect for me it seems! I emailed him at 7:30pm and got a quote back that beats a whole sale price for his competitor so I am going to proceed forward with that! I will be running the 2jzgte vvti with R154 and keeping my AC. I don't really care about cruise control or traction control, but ABS is necessary.

                  Motor arrival on 6/20/14. I can definitely tell it was pressure washed, but the timing belt and serp belt look good.. Aisin water pump/toyota oil filter.. Only thing I can see damaged is the 6th injector has a broken retaining clip, so the clip doesnt snap on. Need to pull this harness off and get it to Mark Panic @ PanicWire and tomorrow I will start yanking my 2jzge out.

                  - - - Updated - - -

                  Dropped the harness off with Mark @ PanicWire and meeting him at Pat Acres drift event 6/22

                  So far on my car (not much done).. A/C pump is unbolted from the motor without being disconnected, PS pump is pulled off the motor but still connected as well. Drained the oil and don't really see metal in it, and pulled the radiator, intake and some of the wiring disconnected.

                  So I yanked out the motor and trans myself and figured I would write the process in case anyone didn't know.

                  - Remove hood and set ontop of car
                  - Remove battery
                  - Put car on jack stands front/rear allowing you to lay under the car, secure it safely.
                  - Drain transmission fluid, engine oil, and radiator coolant.
                  - remove intake pipe and disconnect radiator hoses, unplug side fan connectors and remove radiator.
                  -Remove heater hose from exhaust side, disconnect wiring to igniter/coil/MAF/alternator
                  - Remove cruise control cable and accelerator cable from throttle body
                  - Remove heater control valve hose and heater control valve from fire wall.
                  - Unbolt power steering pump and lay it in battery tray (3-4 bolts)
                  - Under the car disconnect the exhaust after the O2 sensor (2 bolts)
                  - Remove drive shaft
                  - Remove shifter from inside
                  - Disconnect transmission ground from driver side bellhousing underneath
                  - Disconnect starter wire underneath driver side
                  - Prepare to remove fuel lines.. These must be elevated into the engine bay as much as possible to prevent sucking all your gas out, you will also need to put a glove on the end or something and tape it up.
                  - Remove return fuel line hose between the intake manifold and shock tower
                  - Driver side under neath car remove fuel inlet banjo and elevate both hoses in engine bay.
                  - If you want to disconnect A/C and recharge it later, crack the A/C lines and pull them off... bag them and tape up the lines with the o-rings.
                  - If you want to leave the A/C connected to remove the motor: You need to remove the bolts holding the A/C compressor on and supporting brackets, and to remove the rear stud you need a female TORX E-10 socket, this will allow you to lay the pump down with the lines attached while pulling the motor.
                  - Hook up engine hoist to motor mounting locations
                  - Remove glove box and ECU protective cover, remove ECU by unplugging it carefully
                  - Disconnect the 40 pin body harness plug with a bolt in the center for A/C and TRAC
                  - In the engine bay pull the two bolts holding the harness to the firewall and carefully disconnect it elsewhere on the firewall.
                  - Carefully pull the harness and three 40 pin plugs with the engine harness out of the firewall. You will need to go back and forth between the interior and engine bay to slowly guide the plugs out without breaking them.
                  - Set engine harness on motor
                  - Underneath car unbolt transmission mount ( 4 bolts )
                  - Pop out the two long caps on either side of the motor hiding the engine mount nuts which are 18mm
                  - Remove the engine mount nuts
                  - Start hoisting slowly and pulling forward once the motor mounts pull out (both mine were destroyed)
                  - Check if any wiring is connected around the motor, there are a few ground straps that need to be removed.
                  - Hoist engine and slowly move foward
                  - bring the front of the motor as close to the core support as possible but hoist to lift the pan over the core support, and then hoist the motor all the way up
                  - Either hoist the engine high enough so the trans clears the core support or lift the tail shaft up and help clear out of the engine bay, lower engine in a safe spot.

                  Pretty much how I did it from memory, as far as other updates...

                  I got the ECU and A/C body harness plug to Panic wire, harness should be done soon according to Mark. Parts i've been picking up...

                  12360-46111 97+ Supra TT motor mounts - 61.18/each
                  94 toyota supra 2jzgte throttle cable - 61.54
                  Pilot bearing - 6.06
                  Rear main seal - 29.97
                  97+ vvti upper radiator hose
                  94 supra lower radiator hose
                  15678-46020 filter, vvti pipe list 5.55 cost 4.16
                  12263-46010 hose, vent list 10.88 cost 8.16
                  12264-46010 hose, vent list 11.03 cost 8.27
                  2jz thermostat
                  7mgte "TOYODA" p/s reservoir
                  NGK v-power copper spark plugs for 94 2jzgte

                  I attached my 2jzge a/c compressor and it bolted right up to the 2jzgte vvti motor, the alternator is the same 3 pin oval tan plug so I can use either. I removed the motor mounts from the 2jzge motor and attached the new 97+ TT motor mounts which are supposed to be stronger than TRD supra mounts (less rubber).

                  I have to swap transmissions and attach the motor mounts and I will be putting the motor in the car. I've looked and the rear heater hoses look like they will line up good, the fuel return line is in the same spot and the fuel inlet banjo is the same. Should be all plug and play.

                  I am using the gs300 power steering pump, but connecting the banjo fitting from my car which has lines to my rack n pinion and should work fine. So everything seems to be going well. I haven't really taken many pictures because my cell phone sucks and i'm doing all the work alone.

                  Finished Harness:


                  • #54
                    Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                    lots of hiccups. Definitely not as easy to do as a non vvti 2jzgte JZS147 swap (if that wasn't obvious, I will help you realize)

                    First off is the pictures of the harness so you can see what is involved.

                    correct mounting locations for our car (EXH side)

                    I tried to install the motor with transmission attatched and it ended up a little crooked.. Definitely snagging..

                    Crooked with interference from ABS pump:

                    The firewall is also a big issue if you plan to keep the twins, like I want too...I had already pounded it a bit before trying this attempt and still had clearance issues like you see, also with the back ABS brake lines against the firewall you will have clearance issues with the rear turbo piping if you leave the twins attatched. All of this can be avoided with a single turbo.

                    I pulled the motor and trans out again to to a little love tapping and fitment of my motor :P

                    I had to pound the firewall quite a bit with a BIG hammer.

                    To make it easier with test fitments, I removed the bellhousing bolts and the clutch fork and seperated the trans from the motor. With the softening I did on the firewall, and unbolting my ABS pump and pulling it about 2-3" toward the headlight allowed me to get the motor to sit in on the motor mounts. Clearance looks good in the back but I have a problem I still need to figure out. The heater core from the body comes out at a downward angle and the Aristo JZS161 points straight upward in the back, and maybe i could use a really long heater hose and loop it around? But I don't know about that... My idea is to remove the pipe and cut and weld an elbow on the heater core pipe facing toward the firewall and run a straight heater core hose connecting the two. The ABS pump is going to stay where its at hanging foward until I can extend the lines and remount it more toward the headlight.

                    When I got home my intercooler arrived.. Bar and plate and looks small enought that I can retain all of my A/C lines up front and not have to move much around. Going to run 2.5" intercooler pipes and a CX racing 3" filter kit.


                    • #55
                      Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                      I got the hoses for the power steering I needed. The larger hose is 5/8 and the smaller hose is 3/8. I also won a 1jz clutch fan and blade on ebay but in the mean time I test fitted my brothers, I am going to need to space out the fan a tiny bit just for extra clearance on the radiator hose. I took pictures showing the work I had done previously with a better camera. Waiting on parts and I think today is going to be a day off from the heat.

                      - - - Updated - - -

                      CX racing supra 93-98 radiator came in, Here's what it looks like..

                      As you can see the center mounting points are on the sides, whereas the stock mounting location is more toward the center. My brothers friend hooked me up for a case of beer and welded new mounts on the stock location, it looks great and fits good! Upper radiator hose needs to be trimmed and I want to space my fan out a little bit.

                      I spent a while ontop of the car and under the car, but I managed to get the lower left heater hose on! YAY! I can't get the clamp on it yet, but I will work on that. I hooked up the one way vacuum booster valve from a mk3 supra, and tried installing the temperature gauge sensor but it didn't fit, so I gotta figure that out. I also put the rear heater hose on and picked up a 3"-2.5" reducer for my throttle body from ETS.


                      • #56
                        Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                        Picked up my upper radiator pipe from the welder, he polished it for me and did beaded ends but I ended up spraying my hose/clamp and part of the pipe black to see if the fan will rub at all. I'm about .4" away at the closet spot. I would like to remove the studs out of the fan clutch and use bolts from the front so I can put some 1/2" spacers In between but I would need something machine that is the same size and weights as each other to keep the system balanced. Right now with some 1/4" diameter washers I can still see a little wobble, whether the fan has a little natural wobble in it or if its the addition of the washers I don't know. But I'm only spaced about 1/4" right now.

                        I also cut the spade connector off that panic wire installed for my gauge as I wanted everything to be factory connectors, and I got that lead wire with pin from Toyota, stripped and soldered the wires together and double heat shrunk it.

                        Next I remembered my tachometer wasn't working and from previous research on the forums (thank you to those who has posted correct information) all I had to do was jump the resistor labeled "R7" next to the orange plug in the center. Soldered a wire in there and WAHLAH! tach works now :woohoo:

                        Last off I spent a little time under the front of the car with a cut off wheel and removed the passenger tow hook more and removed some metal to help me run a straight pipe out of the intercooler. Other than that I only need to cut my intercooler piping to the correct sizes and get it all on there and put water in the engine before I can drive it over to the muffler shop. Should have it driving this weekend!

                        - - - Updated - - -

                        Took it for her first test drive today with the exhaust disconnected. Wow! Hahahahah that is all for now

                        I replaced the ECU temp sensor and it made no difference in my idle, so I adjusted the set screw for idle adjustment on my throttle body and got it to idle at 500-600 when warm which is normal for a 2jzgte. I found out my brakes didn't work while trying to move it out of the shop, turns out the rear port on my car isn't even connected so I had to put a vacuum banjo at the top. Works now I will probably try to have an exhaust down pipe finished by Monday, but in the mean time a cell phone video for you guys :P

                        Correct brake booster spot:

                        Fan blade didn't touch on my test run. I found the rev limiter too somewhere around 6500-6800rpm



                        • #57
                          Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                          Couldn't help but take some more photos of the setup today. I found out some information about adjusting the throttle body screw, this is my issue with my idle spiking occasionally but whether I can get it to idle perfect when I set it back to OEM who knows. Lets hope! I think i might have a leak somewhere or a sensor screwy. I found a list of toyota/lexus MIL codes so I will pull codes tomorrow and see whats up. I've heard that I can eliminate all of the transmission codes with the use of resisters so I will look into that more.

                          Thanks to Jason T for this 2jzgte vvti information:

                          Pretty happy seeing this :woot: I think the engine bay looks great with a VVTI

                          Interior looks rough but some day I'll have the carpets redone and put new leather in it. I did get this authentic decade old italian momo steering wheel in near perfect condition for a good price. I still need to get a shift boot back in the car, I think I'll try a local upholstery shop to find real leather because all the stuff on ebay looks like crap :sad:

                          Down pipe isn't pretty by any means, but I am using scrap 2.5" pipe from a project a long time ago that my brother did. My pie cuts and angles aren't perfect but I'm using a pneumatic cut off wheel and 110v lincoln wire feed. From my mock up it seems to fit pretty good but I will bolt it up tomorrow and see how it really sits lol

                          - - - Updated - - -

                          I got the down pipe welded up and bolted on. I didn't take pictures because my welder was acting up and I only got a few decent welds, it was giving me a lot of trouble but whatever. Its on! haha

                          I also had to re bleed the clutch but it feels good now, back to normal!

                          I started the car and unplugged the 3 sensors and adjusted the screw to a 1900 idle and turned off the car, unplugged the battery for a minute and plugged the sensors back in, then put the battery terminal back on and put a jumper into my diagnostics. Turned the ignition on and held the throttle wide open for 10-15 seconds and then I pulled the jumper leaving my ignition on and started the car. Right now it seems to start up sometimes around an 800-900 idle, and sometimes a 1300-1400 idle, kinda weird but its working a lot better than it was.

                          Last of all, I was driving home after getting a little gas and decided to try a 2nd gear pull, I don't know if I hit fuel cut but my throttle body went into limp mode and I lost all control of the throttle except the last 20-25% which allowed me to pull off in a safe spot, after switching my ignition on and off a few times I got it started and giving me a throttle response again. No clue why this happened! I checked one code and read 39, which is the VVTI system... Looks like my fat hand broke my vvti oil control valve sensor ontop of the motor..


                          • #58
                            Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                            Great update mate Lots of work gone into that. You definitely need a fan shroud though...
                            JZS147- Do Luck edition
                            Ive got one speed, one gear, go!


                            • #59
                              Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                              I will be searching for a supra TT fan shroud for sure. Thank you, I've been busting my ass off and learning a lot. I will try to make my future posts more well written out instead of thrown together on this build thread.

                              Because my swap doesn't have a OBII diagnostics port, its pretty useful that the jzs161 aristos also use a MIL error light on the dash. I had the factory jumper box removed out of my harness along with all of the auto transmission wiring. I only have reverse light wiring and my vss (vehicle speed sensor) plug. I have a wire coming out of my ecu that just needs to be grounded for my check engine light to flash, so in counting my codes today I came up with:

                              39 - VVT-I Valve
                              42 - Vehicle Speed Sensor signal
                              59 - VVT-I Valve
                              89 - Not sure what this is.. My MIL-code page by says (P1125,1126,1127,1128) read a pulse ETCS-SNOW. I've read this could be either one of the servo motors attached to my throttle plate


                              • #60
                                Re: Project 93 GS300 5 speed

                                What fan shroud have you guys gotten to work? I bought a 93-96 JZA80 auto fan shroud and it hits my radiator pipe and the mounting points dont line up really. Using a CX racing 93-96 aluminum radiator, but it seems like something custom will need to be made.